– Drum Brakes Repair –
- Directory -
- Home Repair Tips -
• Disc Brakes :
• Drum Brakes :
• Master Cylinder :
• Emergency Brake :
• Brake Servicing :
– 2006 –
What you will need:
Brake spring pliers
Brake retainer tool
Screwdriver or pry bar
Pliers or vise grips
New brake shoes
Never work on a vehicle that is only supported by a jack. Use jack stands to support the vehicle while you work. Work on a solid, level surface. Never jack a car up on dirt or grass.
Do one wheel at a time so you can use the other wheel as a reference in case you get confused.
Check for any fluid leaks or cracked brake lines. Replace them as necessary.
Brake linings contain asbestos. Do not use compressed air or dry brush to clean brake parts. Many brake parts contain asbestos fibers that, if inhaled, can cause serious injury.
• Using a lug wrench, break the wheel lugs loose one or two turns. Do not remove them completely.
• Jack one side of the vehicle up and support it with a jack stand. Do the same for the opposite side.
• Remove the lugs and take the wheels off.
• Remove the brake drums:
• Rear Wheel Drive :
• Remove brake drum. Look at the wheel studs for a round clip. If they are there, use a wire cutters or other suitable tool to remove them. You don't have to worry about breaking or losing them. They are there to keep the brake drum from falling off while on the assembly line. They serve no purpose now. If brake lining is dragging on brake drum, back off brake adjustment by rotating adjustment screw. If brake drum is rusted or corroded to axle flange and cannot be removed readily, apply some rust penetrent and lightly tap axle flange to drum mounting surface with a suitable hammer.
• Front Wheel Drive :
• Remove bearing cap and wheel bearings. Slide drum off, backing off the adjustment if necessary.Some bearings are one-piece bearings in which case you just slide the drum off.
( Any time the brake drums are removed for brake service, the braking surface diameter should be checked. If the braking surface diameter exceeds specifications, the drum must be replaced. If the braking surface diameter is within specifications, drums should be cleaned and inspected for cracks, scores, deep grooves, taper, out of round and heat spotting. If drums are cracked or heat spotted, they must be replaced.)
( Minor scores should be removed with sandpaper. Grooves and large scores can only be removed by machining with special equipment, as long as the braking surface is within specifications stamped on brake drum outer surface. Any brake drum sufficiently out of round to cause vehicle vibration or noise while braking or showing taper should also be machined, removing only enough stock to true up the brake drum.)
• Using brake spring pliers or equivalent, remove primary and secondary shoe return springs.
• Remove automatic adjuster cable from anchor plate and unhook from adjuster lever.
• Remove adjuster cable, overload spring, cable guide and anchor plate.
• Unhook adjuster lever spring from lever and remove spring and lever.
• Remove shoe-to-shoe spring from secondary shoe web, then the primary shoe.
• Spread shoes apart and remove parking brake strut and spring.
• Using suitable tool, remove shoe retainers, then the springs and nails.
• Disconnect parking brake cable from lever and remove brake shoes.
• Remove parking brake lever from secondary shoe.
• Clean dirt from brake drum, backing plate and all other components
• Lubricate parking brake lever fulcrum with suitable brake lube, then attach lever to secondary brake shoe. Ensure that the lever operates smoothly.
Lightly lubricate backing plate shoe contact surfaces with suitable brake lube.
• Connect parking brake lever to cable and slide secondary brake shoe into position.
• Connect wheel cylinder link to brake shoe (if equipped).
• Slide parking brake lever strut behind axle flange and into parking brake lever slot, then place parking brake anti-rattle spring over strut.
• Position primary brake shoe on backing plate and connect wheel cylinder link (if equipped) and parking brake strut.
• Install anchor plate and position adjuster cable eye over anchor pin.
• Install primary shoe return spring using brake spring pliers or equivalent.
• Place protruding hole rim of cable guide in secondary shoe web hole, then holding guide in position, install secondary shoe return spring through cable guide and secondary shoe. Install spring on anchor pin using brake spring pliers or equivalent.
NOTE: Ensure cable guide remains flat against secondary shoe web during and after return spring installation. Also ensure secondary spring end overlaps primary spring end on anchor pin.
• Using suitable pliers, squeeze spring ends around anchor pin until parallel.
• Install adjuster screw assembly between primary and secondary brake shoes with star wheel on secondary shoe side.
NOTE: The left side adjuster assembly stud is stamped "L" and the right side is stamped "R". Be sure you don't mix them up or your brakes will not self-adjust.
• Install shoe-to-shoe spring, then position adjusting lever spring over pivot pin on shoe web.
• Install adjusting lever under spring and over pivot pin, then slide lever slightly rearward.
• Install nails, springs and retainers.
• Thread adjuster cable over guide and hook end of overload spring in lever. Ensure eye of cable is pulled tight against anchor and in a straight line with guide.
• Install brake drum, tire and wheel assembly.
• Adjust brakes.
• If any hydraulic connections have been opened, bleed brake system.
• Check master cylinder fluid level, and replenish as necessary.
• Check brake pedal for proper feel and return.
• Lower vehicle and road test. Do not severely apply brakes immediately after installation of new brake linings or permanent damage may occur to linings, and/or brake drums may become scored. Brakes must be used moderately during first few hundred miles of operation to ensure proper burnishing of linings.
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